In London we are staying at Fitzroy Square. This is close, as per London standards to the University of London, which is at a walking distance. Most of the houses surrounding the area are occupied by Professors or students. There is a shopping area also near by and so are Soho Square and Trafalgar Square. It is interesting to see how the English commemorate their famous personalities and not necessarily only politicians as is done in India. There are a number of houses that have plaques in them with names of important people who lived there. I do not recollect any such thing in India which we have of people, literatures, poets, writers, painters, doctors other than politicians. One can connect to the house immediately as one sees these names.
As a feminist historian working on South Asian history for the past forty years, I went back into the past and started thinking of my various Journeys in to life and through life. This blog would then give a peep into history and the different civilizations, cultures and the people that one comes across in this journey. I do not keep these in chronological order, but the Journey the place becomes the focus.
Wednesday, June 26, 2019
Monday, June 24, 2019
Colchester Town
Spent the whole morning going around the town of Colchester a very small, cute and an ancient town in the typical English fashion. Colchester name to fame is as one of the first towns established by the Romans when they established their kingdom in this region around 43 A.D. and it is one of the oldest recorded town of Britain. It was also the capital of Roman Britain. In fact, it derives its Nam from the Roman word, Coloni means human settlement. Situated on the banks of River Colin it is about fifty miles from London and is in the Essex District. Destroyed and rebuilt many times today it has a war memorial of the first world war veterans with a number of beautiful laid lawns and gardens with bright coloured flowers. The Colchester Castle is an ancient castle of Norman times with beautiful laws all around it. It also has a Georgian House, called the Holly Tree House that has a museum in which one can see three centuries back utensils, clothing, portraits and a huge collection of watches. The Holly tree house was built in 1718 for a Elizabeth Corlinelsen, who died soon with in a year of marriage and then the house passed to Sarah Creffeild and her husband Charles Grey who was a member of Parliament from Colchester for five terms in the reign of King George II and King George III and who lived here till 1827.It is primarily his family collection that we see. He was the one who purchased a lot of land around the castle and planted a number of Holly trees around it. This house has preserved a number of potrarits, clocks and other items of that period.Thanks Deepti for taking time and showing us around this beautiful city, its castles and museums. Indeed a beautiful and lovely day.
Sunday, June 23, 2019
Clacton on sea, Essex
Friday, June 21, 2019
Working in the British Library
My, my !!! The pleasures of being in London. Just being able to work in the British Library is every thing one could ask for. When, I was in Maulana Azad National Urdu University, MANNU, we were working on a Project on Madarsa education and in the State Central Library we came across some reference to memoirs of a Miss Wyld. She had come to start the girls school in Hyderabad. I had desperately searched for this, down the years in many libraries but never found it. Sitting with a friend at Birkbeck, I just mentioned this and she opened the mobile phone and looked at the catelog and reserved this for me. I was not sure but the second day, I went at 9.30,I was told that, I will get this at quarter to twelve and lo they handed me a box with about 450 documents and said, I was to go and sit at the tables with yellow signs. This meant, this was precious and I could not take photographs but notes I could take, and never leave this material unattended and had to hand it back to the desk, even if I left for few minutes. They in turn kept my Library card with them. The green desks meant you can take pictures through your mobile. I looked at the box with amazement and in front of me were typed papers in a much faded yellow colour. Miss Wyld had come to Hyderabad in 1909, having to run a girl's school which had started in 1907.She found that except for the building nothing existed and this is an excellent memoirs of hers on her difficulties, an unmarried women, the issues she faced in an alien country and its culture, climate, language and how difficult it was to make sense of many practices. But she loved the school, she adopted it and ran her school efficiently starting with four students to increasing this to 100 with in a span of a short time. She talks of festivals, fairs, transport, disease, health, schooling, purdah, nautch, life of a woman,floods in Musi, coronation of the Nizam and many more incidents. There were 42 Chapters and I could read only half of this. This memoir was written when Wyld became blind at ninety and learnt to touch type. It is an amazing account of her recollections with such a sharp wit and tendency to note the details and the beginnings of girls education in Hyderabad. I had not carried my lap top on the first day, so I returned back around 1.30,making some notes. Today, I was there at 9.30 with my lap top and did not move till they announced at 4.30, that now all the manuscripts have to be handed over. I could not but help smiling as, I read her account of how when the correspondence became increased in Urdu, she asked the Government to appoint a Babu. After a month of following it up, she finally got a Babu, after all the paraphernalia of maintaining Purdah and seeing that he does not come in contact with any Muslim girl or women. She asked him what his name was and what he had studied. He said very proudly that he was BA Fail and she said, she was so sorry that he had failed and hoped he would pass soon or next year. She found that the Babu was very offended and it was only later that she understood how great an achievement this was and some thing of an accomplishment that he was distinguished enough to have had at least given the exam. There were so many other incidences talked about and I must have looked crazy to others for I kept smiling at many places in between as I read the manuscript. This took me into a flight of imagination as to how Hyderabad must have been in 1909.I am so over whelmed with the staff that is so helpful and eager to help.
Saturday, June 15, 2019
Railings and Statues in the Amravati Collection
The Amravati collection also has 120 slabs of some of the best carved railings and statues that is displayed at the British Museum. The Amravati shrine is dated around 200B.C.
The Amravati Collection
I will consider, today, the 15th June, 2019, as one of the most well spent day in London. I decided to go back to the British Museum not as a tourist but as a Historian. I made up my mind that I was going to spend the whole day only with Indian artefacts and not be tempted with Japan, Egyptian, Korean, Chinese and many others. Hence, it was such a peaceful day, I could make my notes, spend enough time in front of a piece and be in no rush that I had to cover more and time is running out and at the end of the day felt it was a very productive day. In this room one can see collections right from Indus valley civilization and some going to paleolithic age too, the Cholas, Chalukya, Mughals, Tipu, Portuguese till the coming of British. Many of these I had only seen as pictures in books but now I had the real image in front of me and it filled me with a lot of emotion as to how many of my country people and students will not even be able to see the original piece of beauty and have to be satisfied with only a xeroxed copy. While making the East Indian Railway lines, the British had come across beautiful railings, statues, in 1845,which were dated 100 to 200A.D. and they had shipped nearly 145 slabs to London in 1859. However, Colin MacKenzie had, seen these ruins in 1797. These were displayed in the British Museum in, 1889and during the first World War kept in the basement in 1940 and again displayed in 1950. Here is a collection of Indias best artifacts right from 200B.C to the European period. In fact this is the greatest collection of religious sculptures outside the subcontinent,be it Shiva Parvathy, Natraja, Buddha or even the Yakshis. Again, I found the miniatures of great interest. Since, I could take detailed notes I thought it best to display these and write about them so that who ever is interested and my students can really see these pieces.




























































