Versailles Palace: Reliving a piece of History

on 26th December, 2013,  we visited the Versailles Palace, built by Louis XIV in  the 17th century.To me this place is associated with the turbulent times of the French Revolution.  Louis XIII built a hunting lodge at the village of Versailles outside of Paris in 1624. The small structure became the base on which Louis XIV, constructed one of the most costly and extravagant buildings in the world. The men in charge of the project were Louis Le Vau, architect; Charles Le Brun, painter and decorator; and Andre Le Notre, landscape architect. About 37,000 acres of land were cleared to make room for tree-lined terraces, walkways, and thousands of flowering plants. There were 1,400 fountains and 400 pieces of sculpture. Louis XV and Louis XVI also called Versailles home. Austrian princess and wife of Louis XVI Marie Antoinette occupied the Queen’s apartment in which she had to submit to the obligations of her position: levee, toilette, audiences, public meals, etc. But, more used to the simple ceremonial of Austrian palaces, she found it hard to put up with the pomp and ceremony of the Etiquette at Versailles and sought a more intimate life. After the beginning of the  French Revolutionin  1789, the royal family had to leave Versailles and move to the Tuileries Palace.Soon they were beheaded.

After the fall of the monarchy, the Palace of Versailles was put into the hands of the new government. In 1792 portions of the Royal furniture was sold and dispersed and many works of art from the Palace were taken to the Louvre in Paris. Napoleon Bonaparte later took an interest in the Palace and commissioned restoration work, which was later continued by the reinstated monarchy in 1814 by Louis XVI's brother, Louis XVIII. In the 1830's Louis-Phillippe decided to make the Palace into a museum of French history, which was inaugurated in 1837. The Palace continued to place an important role in European history: in 1871 the Hall of Mirrors was the setting for the Proclamation of the German Empire and in 1919 the Hall was the site was the Treaty of Versailles was signed which ended World War I.

Christmas time in France

 

I finish my teaching on 20th December and I had asked my travel agent to book me a return ticket to India on 23rd December and got my tickets. The day he came to hand ove rmy tickets he told me , madam,  we book so many tickets for people to go and have Christmas in Paris and you are returning back, just two days before.  Hence I cancelled my tickets and booked a new one and extended my stay till 28th December. I  shift to Paris after my teaching assignment. I think this was a good move for I have seen for the first time Christmas celebration in France. The towns become alive from November itself. France,  bursts out of its sleepy autumn quiet and lights up-- literally and figuratively every nook and corner. In Arras, Lile, Lyon and even Paris , I could see trees strung with garlands of shimmering light, and many other places around the city are decorated in the same festive spirit. Though it is cold in France and often rainy or icy. Temperatures approach or descend below zero. Snow is rare, but a Christmas  tradition is the temporary ice skating rinks that get set up around the city. There are huge wheels put up and there is often a small market like our Shipa rama which is found in most of the cities. Christmas market, an outdoor "village" of wooden booths offering gourmet treats like mulled wine and gingerbread, gifts, decorations, and other delights. Each street is decorated in a different way with a different design of light. I wish I had the SLR camera of my son, Sankalp to capture some of the night lights and I cannot do any justice with my small camera but the time in and around Christmas is indeed a beautiful time to visit France.

 

A Christmas in Pairs, France in 2013

 A very happy Christmas and a new year to every one. May, Joy resounds in the hearts of those ,Who believe in the miracle of Christmas! Wishing  all the peace, joy, and love of the season! 

I had one of the best Christmas on 24th December, 2013. We were invited to a family gathering of prof. Michele Cheleni at his home. Christine his wife wore a saree and looked so graceful. After  a lovely dinner , we attended the midnight mass and I found the ceremony so beautiful. Every thing was in French but I could make out few words like Alie-u ya, Glory and holy night. I found this church to follow a lot of African culture for there was beating of the drums, dancing and swaying to the music in the African style which was very beautiful.Returned home at 2,00 at night.

The traditional market in France

 It is always fun to visit a traditional vegetable market. on 21 st December, 2013 we visited the traditional market in France . I still remember the times, when the children were small and  we would go to Monda markets on Saturday  and come back with a car full of vegetables  and spend the whole of Sunday sorting them out. Today when the children have all left the home I do not visit the vegetable market anymore and just depend on the supermarket and unfortunately this cannot compare to the joy of bargaining and buying in a vegetable market. I could find a lot of these markets  in Florina Polis in Brazil, Perth in Australia and Lyons and Paris in France.  I could not but help comparing with our Monda market and the Raytu Bazar near Mehendipatnam. Our farmers and vegetable vendor are so poor but here they would come in a Van with their goods and drive this back. They would spend the time sipping coffee  and would be seated in a chair, which they would bring in their van. I wish I could see this day in India.

The market , "le marché", is an integral part of life in virtually all French towns and large villages, so much so that even today the market can be seen as a well-surviving part of France's historic heritage. There are huge "farmers' markets"; in France, the  traditional fruit and vegetable markets, as well as markets offering a much wider array of  food stuff. Typical French markets  are a mix between the farmers' market and a traders' market, with stalls offering local produce straight from the farm standing alongside fruit and vegetable stalls, cheese stalls and other stalls offering a full range of produce.       The largest markets in provincial France are often known as fairs (foires). French fairs are traditional extended markets that take place perhaps once or twice a year, on the local saint's day for instance. In a few places, they take place once a month. Virtually every French town has its covered market (marché couvert), which is a permanent structure, occupied by an array of market stalls.

The Eiffel Tower

 

Visited and spent a day at the symbol of Paris and of France, the Eiffel Tower, one of the best known

monuments in the world. The Eiffel Tower was built by Gustave Eiffel for the 1889 Exposition Universelle,

which was to celebrate the 100th year anniversary of the French Revolution. Its construction in 2 years,

2 months and 5 days was a veritable technical and architectural achievement. The tower was met with

resistance from the public when it was built, with many calling it an eyesore and one that did not merge

with the architecture of Paris. Novelist  Guy de Maupassant ate at  a restaurant at the tower regularly,

because it was the one place in Paris he was sure he wouldn't see it.  As the tower later proved valuable

for communication purposes, it was allowed to remain after the expiry of the permit. The military used it to

dispatch Parisian taxis to the front line of the Marne, and it therefore became a victory statue of that battle.

It was also used to catch the infamous "Mata Hari," and after this, its demolition became unthinkable to the

French population. It is decorated with  20,000 light bulbs each have a low power of 6 watts and light up

randomly, as each bulb is separate from the others.

Artists at work in the Louvre Museum

 

It was  very interesting to see some artists trying to copy the original paintings at the Louvre Museum. They allow this in the Louvre museum but there is a big demand and an artist has to apply and then wait for permission and get his or her turn to paint the pictures. Looking at these imitations we could see the value of the original paintings.

Artists trying to copy from the original masterpieces. Visitors to the museum find this very interesting and there is a huge crowd watching the artists paint.

The Louvre Museum

On 19th December, 2013, we visited the must visit place in Paris the Louvre Museum located on the right bank of the Seine river. This was my second visit having visited this museum earlier in 2006. Nothing compares  the grandeur of the palace called the Louvre. This museum is housed in the  12th cen fortress of Philip Augustus that was again rebuilt by Francis I in 1546. Napoleon added to this collection and so did Louis XIV. The Louvre ceased to be a royal residence when Louis XIV moved his court to Versailles in 1682. A huge underground space has been created to link the three sections. The Louvre’s collection of French paintings from the 15th to the 19th century is unsurpassed in the world, and it also has many masterpieces by Italian Renaissance painters and Flemish and Dutch painters of the Baroque period. Oriental Antiquities, IslamicArt, Egyptian Antiquities, Greek, Etruscan and Roman Antiquities, Paintings, Sculptures, Art items, Prints, you name it and the museum has everything. I remember I was very frustrated last time when I visited this museum  for everything was written in French and I could not understand a word. Now I found a large number of things written in English and it also had an audio system where we could get the history of the object and in a language we understand .

Monolisa in the Orignoal in the Louvre Museum

The famous Monolisa, thought to be of Lisa Gherardini, wife of the Florentine cloth merchant named Francesco del Giocondo, by Leonardo da Vinci is here and there is a huge crowd of visitors all wanting to see her in the original.One can see a huge collection of Michelangelo's sculptures, which gives to the actual marble an  expression which is unsurpassed.

The city of Lyon

 

The city is known for its historical and architectural landmarks and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lyon was historically known as an important area for the production and weaving of silk and in modern times has developed a reputation as the capital of gastronomy in France.Lyon, the third-largest city in the country, is another of the most beautiful cities France has to offer. Bisected by the rivers Rhône and Saône from north to south, Lyon is well known for its quality of life and its beautiful heritage from Roman times to contemporary architecture.The capital of the Gauls during the Roman The capital of the Gauls during the Roman Empire, Lyon is the seat of an archbishopric whose holder bears the title of Primate of the Gauls. Lyon became a major economic hub during the Renaissance. The city is recognised for its cuisine and gastronomy, as well as historical and architectural landmarks; as such, the districts of Old Lyon, the Fourvière hill, the Presqu'île and the slopes of the Croix-Rousse are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Lyon was historically an important area for the production and weaving of silk. Lyon played a significant role in the history of cinema since Auguste and Louis Lumière invented the cinematograph there. The city is also known for its light festival, the Fête des Lumières, which begins every 8 December and lasts for four days, earning Lyon the title of "Capital of Lights".Empire, Lyon is the seat of an archbishopric whose holder bears the title of Primate of the Gauls. Lyon became a major economic hub during the Renaissance. The city is recognised for its cuisine and gastronomy, as well as historical and architectural landmarks; as such, the districts of Old Lyon, the Fourvière hill, the Presqu'île and the slopes of the Croix-Rousse are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Lyon was historically an important area for the production and weaving of silk. Lyon played a significant role in the history of cinema since Auguste and Louis Lumière invented the cinematograph there. The city is also known for its light festival, the Fête des Lumières, which begins every 8 December and lasts for four days, earning Lyon the title of "Capital of Lights".

University of Lyon, Lectures

Reached Lyon on 14th December, 2013.  I had few lectures in the University of Lyon.Lyons is the third largest city in France. It  is shaped by its two rivers, the Rhône (to the East) and the Saône (to the West). The old town between the two rivers is a beautiful mix of ancient and the modern.  This gateway to the Alps enfolds Roman ruins, Renaissance-era architecture, abundant art spaces, renovated riverfronts and a lot of buildings with  futuristic architecture. It is known as a gastronomic and historical city with a vibrant cultural scene. It is also the birthplace of cinema. Founded by the Romans, with many preserved historical areas, Lyon is the archetype of the heritage city, as recognised by UNESCO. France’s most celebrated chef, the octogenarian Paul Bocuse, hails from Lyon, and the city’s bouchons — homey restaurants serving rustic, traditional cuisine — are famous countrywide. We had dinner in one such restaurant and the food was delicious. Early traces of settlement date back to 12,000 BC but there is no evidence of continuous occupation prior to the Roman era. Lugdunum, the Roman name of the city, was officially founded in 43 BC by Lucius Munatius Plancus, then Governor of Gaul. The first Roman settlements were on Fourvière hill, and the first inhabitants were probably veterans of Caesar's war campaigns. The development of the city was boosted by its strategic location and it was promoted Capital of Gauls in 27 BC. The Roman theatre in Fourvière, the most important remain of the Roman city of Lugdunum.This is a  get-up-and-go place, not a lie-back-and-rest one, with an almost Swiss sense of cleanliness, order and efficiency.

In Brussels

 We used the  time in Arras to travel to Brussels the capital of Belgium and reached here on 1st December, 2013. Brussels is known as Bruxelles (French) / Brussels (Dutch).  Starting as the 10th-century fortress town founded by the descendants of Charlemagne , Brussels has an ancient past that goes down to medieval ages.  It is today divided into three regions Flanders in the north (Dutch), Wallonia in the south (French) and Brussels in the centre (Bilingual). Many of the important landmarks are known with the name of Charlemagne who is seen as the person who united Europe in the beginning of the medieval world. Today, Brussels is the  centre of European politics, with the European Commission, the European Parliament and NATO (the North Atlantic Treaty Organisation) operating from here. Though very cold there is a festicvity in the air and Christmas being around the corner the streets are decorated and lighted.

The French system of Education

 

I have been interacting so much with students of different levels here in France in Arras, in Paris  that

I am very impressed with their system of education. In all these years in India rarely did I  interact with

school or Intermediate system of education( unless I am  invited as a chief guest ) but here I was invited

to speak to different groups  of students from different levels of schooling. The management had informed

the students before hand, two days in advance about  the topic I was going to speak on. The students had

all come prepared with questions about India and asked me many questions, especially about women's

issues and women's movements or some aspect of Indian history. I feel bad that we hardly have any

analytical system of education in India and it is just by rote that our students study. I had young students

as old as thirteen fourteen ask me, can you tell me some thing about your caste system, how do you think

this effects India or  why is there so much reporting of rape now. Do you think this is a media hype and

what do you see as a change in India.

When I give a talk all the student sit before their lap tops typing away. I am not sure why the management

wants these students to be there.Are they  sent to practice their English language and to get some

general knowledge about  India or Indian history, that  is not at all a part of their syllabus.In some classes

I have a mix of students who are in post graduate and some in elementary school all sitting together.

I have hardly done this kind of lecturing in India and keep wondering while I speak what will this young

children get from what I  am speaking.  But I am truly impressed at the efforts made by the

management to expose students to  different views.

The French Cuisine

 Wherever, Suresh and I  are invite to speak in Paris it is followed by elaborate lunches and we have learnt a lot about French cuisine. In 2010, UNESCO added French cuisine to the list of cultural objects that are called ‘intangible cultural heritage’. The history of French cuisine dates back to the middle ages. During this time French meals where very similar to Moorish Cuisine, and were served in a style called service en confusion, meaning that meals were served all at once. Meals consisted of spiced meats such as pork, beef, poultry, and fish. Catherine De Medicis (a Florentine princess) who married Henry duc d'Orleans (who became King Henry II of France) influence French cusine to a great extent. Italian chefs where light years of ahead of French culinary experts, and had already begun creating dishes such as lasagna, manicotti, and had experimented using ingredients like truffles, garlic, and mushrooms. When Catherine married King Henry II, she brought along with her Italian chefs who in turn introduced Italian culinary practices to the French court. Even though the culinary cultures of these two countries have taken different roads, the French owe much of their culinary development to the Italians and their intervention in the 1500s.  Between the 17 th and 18 th century there was a development in Haute Cuisine or “High Cuisine”, and its origins can be found in the recipes of a chef named La Varenne. In the late 19 th century and early 20 th century there began a modernization of haute cuisine. Much of this new cuisine owes its development to Georges Auguste Escoffier.

A note about the french Education system

 The French education system is split into three stages: primary school (école), secondary school (collège) and high school (lycée). Primary and secondary education is free, neutral, secular and compulsory between the ages of 6 and 16. However, there are some private schools that are not subject to these obligations and particularities of the French education system.The primary school curriculum in France is similar to that in other countries, and includes literacy and numeracy, with classes in French, arithmetic, but also geography and history, the arts, and more and more frequently a foreign language, Middle school. Four levels, normally for pupils aged 11 - 15. The "collège unique" is the backbone of the French school system. All pupils go to collège, usually at age 11. The baccalauréat, France colloquially as le bac, is an academic qualification take at the end of the lycée (secondary education). It was introduced by Napoleon I in 1808. It is the main diploma required to pursue university studies. Unlike English "A levels" or Scottish "highers", the baccalaureate is a unitary exam, that pupils pass or fail. It is impossible to pass in one subject and fail in others. The only mark that counts is the final weighted average, which must be at last 10/20 for a pupil to pass. Pupils who achieve just under 10/20 are often passed by the exam board, whose decision is final. This is an exam which is said to be very difficult and I saw very serious studies being undertaken to pass this exam.

In Brussels

 We used the  time in Arras to travel to Brussels the capital of Belgium and reached here on 1st December, 2013. Brussels is known as Bruxelles (French) / Brussels (Dutch).  Starting as the 10th-century fortress town founded by the descendants of Charlemagne , Brussels has an ancient past that goes down to medieval ages.  It is today divided into three regions Flanders in the north (Dutch), Wallonia in the south (French) and Brussels in the centre (Bilingual). Many of the important landmarks are known with the name of Charlemagne who is seen as the person who united Europe in the beginning of the medieval world. Today, Brussels is the  centre of European politics, with the European Commission, the European Parliament and NATO (the North Atlantic Treaty Organisation) operating from here. Though very cold there is a festicvity in the air and Christmas being around the corner the streets are decorated and lighted.